Saba Kaido Road,

Obama, & Kyoto

ISSUE 8 (August 2019)

JOURNEY AROUND

LAKE BIWA

Treasure Chest of Japanese Culture

Edited & Published by Zipangu Bridge

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CONTENT

Journey Around Lake Biwa, 8

Saba Kaido Road, Obama, & Kyoto

Mackerels Specialty Store with the history of Saba Kaido Road: Kutsukiya

A traditional craftsman who has inherited the 400-year-old history of Wakasa-nuri lacquerware: Furui Hashi Kobo (Furui Chopsticks Studio)

Passing the Wakasa washi (Japanese paper) tradition that has lasted for 1,000 years on to the next generation: Wakasa Washi-no Ie (House of Wakasa Washi)

Gallery remodeling 150-year-old merchant house: Seisuikan

Column article: Legend of Yao-bikuni

Handmade Shibazuke handed down to the village of Ohara since ancient times: Shibakyu

Scenery of Saba Kaido Road

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Editor's Letter

Masashi Harada

This issue features Saba Kaido Road. The Saba Kaido Road refers to the road used to transport mackerel caught in Wakasa Bay from Obama in Fukui Prefecture to Kyoto in the capital. There are several roads called Saba Kaido Road, but the most famous route is from Obama, Fukui to Oharaguchi in Kyoto via Kumagawa-juku and Ohara. It is said that the mackerel were salted to preserve them on their journey from Obama to Kyoto, and when they arrived in the capital, they tasted even better than when they were fresh.

In this issue, we visited and interviewed the shop owners and people preserving Japanese culture along the Saba Kaido Road, mainly in Obama City. Obama is a port town facing Wakasa Bay. In the past, the mackerel were plentiful and the port was lively. Even today, it retains the appearance of the old port town and we can enjoy the charm of the culture. We visited Kutsukiya, which sells mackerel and runs a restaurant. We asked Takashi Masuda about the history of the Saba Kaido Road and mackerel cuisine.

The area along the coast of Wakasa Bay, centered on Obama City, is a city where traditional crafts are thriving. Wakasa-nuri lacquerware is one of the classic types of Japanese lacquerware. Wakasa-nuri chopsticks are the most common type of lacquered chopsticks in Japan. Some common Wakasa-nuri patterns are okoshi-moyo (okoshi pattern), tamagogara-moyo (egg pattern), and kaigara-moyo (shell pattern). Furui Chopsticks Studio has produced Wakasa-nuri chopsticks for many years. Mr. Masahiro Furui, a certified traditional craftsman, talked about the history and characteristics of Wakasa-nuri lacquerware.

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Wakasa washi (Japanese paper produced in the Wakasa area) is famous as well. Wakasa washi has a history of more than a thousand years. It is soft, glossy and durable. We interviewed Mr. Mitsuo Shiba of Wakasa Washi-no Ie (House of Wakasa Washi) who has inherited this tradition as a business. He talked about the history and characteristics of Wakasa washi.

The stone at the end of Saba Kaido Road in Kyoto

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Obama, which developed as a logistics base for the Saba Kaido Road and kitamaebune (old cargo ships), retains the old Japanese architectural style. Seisuikan is a 150-year-old merchant house that has been remodeled and opened to the public as a gallery. The director, Yasuhiro Tsuji, guided us through the old house.

In the past, rich merchants built their own temples, many of which still exist in Obama city. There is a sacred cave in Kuinji Temple that is said to be mausoleum of Yao-bikuni. The chief priest of Kuinji Temple talked about the legend of Yao-bikuni who lived to be 800 years old. We will also introduce Wakasa Hime Shrine, which has a history as a shrine in the Wakasa district, the scenery of Kumagawa-juku, a post town along the Saba Kaido Road, the coastal scenery of Obama, and saba-zushi (rod-shaped sushi topped with mackerel).

The Ohara district of Kyoto is located in the vicinity of beautiful mountains along the Saba Kaido Road. This rich district is known for vegetable making cuisine, and the Kyoto pickle known as shibazuke is famous throughout the country. We visited Shibakyu, which has been making pickles for many years, and asked representative Masaru Kubo about the making of shibazuke in Ohara.

We hope that you will enjoy the stories of the people who are active in the Saba Kaido Road area and cultural heritage and be interested in the history, culture and people’s lives of Fukui, Shiga and Kyoto prefectures throughout this issue.

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Scenery of Saba Kaido Road, 1

Wakasahime Shrine

Location: Onyu 65-41, Obama, Fukui

Phone: 0770-56-1116

Access: Ten-minute walk from JR Higashi Obama Station.

There are two Wakasahiko shrines: the upper shrine and the lower shrine. The upper shrine is called Wakasahiko Shrine and the lower shrine is called Wakasahime Shrine.

This shrine is associated with the myths of Yamasachihiko and Umisachihiko. Yamasachihiko borrowed a fishhook from his older brother Umisachihiko, but a fish escaped with it. Yamasachihiko searched for the lost fishhook and went to a ryugu (dragon’s palace). There, he spied the beautiful Toyotamahime in front of the palace and they were married. Three years later, Yamasachihiko got special powers at ryugu, from a ball that freely manipulated water. Yamasachihiko returned from ryugu to return his brother’s fishhook. Wakasahiko Shrine is dedicated to the veneration of Yamasachihiko, and Wakasahime Shrine is the sacred place deifying Toyotamahime.

It has a history of 1300 years. A 1000-year-old cedar is next to the main shrine. The main hall is over 200 years old. Wakasahime Shrine has more water resources than Wakasahiko Shrine. There are many worshipers here. Traditionally, fishermen have come to visit this shrine to pray to the deity of the sea for safety at sea. Some people also come to pray for the safe delivery of their children. Also, people come to pray to the deity of tatami mats and rugs. In the old days, Wakasahiko Shrine had a sumo dojo (training hall). The ranking boards from the sumo wrestling are still displayed at Wakasahime Shrine.

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