IRELAND’S BEST WALKS
A WALKING GUIDE
HELEN FAIRBAIRN is a full-time travel writer and has written numerous walking guidebooks, exploring destinations as diverse as America’s Rocky Mountains, the European Alps and Scotland’s highlands and islands. A regular contributor to Walking World Ireland magazine, Helen has spent years researching the best walking routes in Ireland. Her other walking guides for The Collins Press are Dublin & Wicklow, Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way and Northern Ireland.
The photographs in this book are the work of Irish landscape photographer GARETH MCCORMACK, author of The Mountains of Ireland. For more information or to license the images, see www.garethmccormack.com.
Disclaimer
Hillwalking and mountaineering are risk sports. The author and The Collins Press accept no responsibility for any injury, loss or inconvenience sustained by anyone using this guidebook.
Advice to Readers
Every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of our guidebooks. However, changes can occur after a book has been printed. If you notice discrepancies between this guidebook and the facts on the ground, please let us know, either by email to enquiries@collinspress.ie or by post to The Collins Press, West Link Park, Doughcloyne, Wilton, Cork, T12 N5EF, Ireland.
Contents
Route Location Map
Quick Reference Route Table
Introduction
Using This Guide
Northeast
Route 1Causeway Coast Path
Route 2Binevenagh Cliffs
Route 3The Antrim Hills
Route 4Sawel and Dart
Route 5Cuilcagh
Route 6Slieve Meelmore and Slieve Meelbeg
Route 7Slieve Donard
Route 8Slieve Muck
Route 9Slieve Bearnagh and the Silent Valley
Route 10The Binnians
Route 11Slieve Foye
Northwest
Route 12Melmore Head
Route 13Muckish
Route 14Errigal
Route 15Slieve Snaght and the Poisoned Glen
Route 16Glenveagh and Farscallop
Route 17Glencolmcille Circuit
Route 18Slieve League Traverse
Route 19Lavagh Beg and Lavagh More
Route 20Benbulbin and Benwiskin
West
Route 21Benwee Head
Route 22Achill Head and Croaghaun
Route 23Minaun Heights
Route 24Glendahurk Horseshoe
Route 25Nephin
Route 26Clare Island
Route 27Inishturk
Route 28Croagh Patrick
Route 29Mweelrea
Route 30Sheeffry Traverse
Route 31Ben Creggan and Ben Gorm
Route 32Diamond Hill
Route 33Glencorbet Horseshoe
Route 34Glencoaghan Horseshoe
Route 35The Central Maumturks – North
Route 36The Central Maumturks – South
Route 37Black Head
Route 38Cliffs of Moher Coastal Path
Southwest
Route 39Great Blasket Island
Route 40Brandon Mountain
Route 41Slieve Mish Circuit
Route 42Coomloughra Horseshoe
Route 43The Reeks Ridge
Route 44Coomasaharn
Route 45Gearhameen Horseshoe
Route 46Torc Mountain
Route 47Dursey Island
Route 48Cummeengeera Horseshoe
Route 49Hungry Hill
Route 50The Sheep’s Head
Southeast
Route 51Galtymore
Route 52Lough Muskry Circuit
Route 53Knockmealdown Circuit
Route 54Nire Valley Coums
Route 55Coumshingaun Circuit
Route 56Howth Cliff Path
Route 57Great Sugar Loaf
Route 58Mullaghcleevaun
Route 59Luggala and Knocknacloghoge
Route 60Djouce and War Hill
Route 61Tonelagee
Route 62Scarr and Kanturk
Route 63Camaderry Circuit
Route 64The Spinc Loop
Route 65Lugnaquilla
Route Location Map
Northeast
1. Causeway Coast Path
2. Binevenagh Cliffs
3. The Antrim Hills
4. Sawel and Dart
5. Cuilcagh
6. Slieve Meelmore and Slieve Meelbeg
7. Slieve Donard
8. Slieve Muck
9. Slieve Bearnagh and the Silent Valley
10. The Binnians
11. Slieve Foye
Northwest
12. Melmore Head
13. Muckish
14. Errigal
15. Slieve Snaght and the Poisoned Glen
16. Glenveagh and Farscallop
17. Glencolmcille Circuit
18. Slieve League Traverse
19. Lavagh Beg and Lavagh More
20. Benbulbin and Benwiskin
West
21. Benwee Head
22. Achill Head and Croaghaun
23. Minaun Heights
24. Glendahurk Horseshoe
25. Nephin
26. Clare Island
27. Inishturk
28. Croagh Patrick
29. Mweelrea
30. Sheeffry Traverse
31. Ben Creggan and Ben Gorm
32. Diamond Hill
33. Glencorbet Horseshoe
34. Glencoaghan Horseshoe
35. Central Maumturks – North
36. Central Maumturks – South
37. Black Head
38. Cliffs of Moher Coastal Path
Southwest
39. Great Blasket Island
40. Brandon Mountain
41. Slieve Mish Circuit
42. Coomloughra Horseshoe
43. The Reeks Ridge
44. Coomasaharn
45. Gearhameen Horseshoe
46. Torc Mountain
47. Dursey Island
48. Cummeengeera Horseshoe
49. Hungry Hill
50. The Sheep’s Head
Southeast
51. Galtymore
52. Lough Muskry Circuit
53. Knockmealdown Circuit
54. Nire Valley Coums
55. Coumshingaun
East
56. Howth Cliff Path
57. Great Sugar Loaf
58. Mullaghcleevaun
59. Luggala and Knocknacloghoge
60. Djouce and War Hill
61. Tonelagee
62. Scarr and Kanturk
63. Camaderry Circuit
64. The Spinc Loop
65. Lugnaquilla
Quick Reference Route Table
No. | Walk Name | Category | Grade | Distance | Ascent | Time | Page |
1 | Causeway Coast Path | Coastal Path | 2 | 15km | 200m | 5–6 hours | 23 |
2 | Binevenagh Cliffs | Hillwalk | 3 | 6.5km | 200m | 2–2½ hours | 26 |
3 | The Antrim Hills | Hillwalk | 3 | 21km | 480m | 5½–6½ hours | 29 |
4 | Sawel and Dart | Hillwalk | 4 | 14km | 650m | 5–6 hours | 32 |
5 | Cuilcagh | Hillwalk | 4 | 16km | 540m | 5½–6½ hours | 35 |
6 | Slieve Meelmore and Slieve Meelbeg | Hillwalk | 4 | 11km | 685m | 4–5 hours | 38 |
7 | Slieve Donard | Hillwalk | 4 | 9km | 850m | 4–5 hours | 41 |
8 | Slieve Muck | Hillwalk | 4 | 13km | 560m | 4½–5½ hours | 44 |
9 | Slieve Bearnagh and the Silent Valley | Hillwalk | 4 | 11km | 850m | 4½–5½ hours | 47 |
10 | The Binnians | Hillwalk | 4 | 13km | 625m | 4½–5½ hours | 50 |
11 | Slieve Foye | Hillwalk | 4 | 11.5km | 730m | 4–5 hours | 53 |
12 | Melmore Head | Coastal Hillwalk | 4 | 12.5km | 200m | 4–5 hours | 56 |
13 | Muckish | Hillwalk | 4 | 4.5km | 400m | 2–3 hours | 59 |
14 | Errigal | Hillwalk | 4 | 5km | 510m | 2½–3 hours | 62 |
15 | Slieve Snaght and the Poisoned Glen | Hillwalk | 4 | 14km | 870m | 5½–6½ hours | 65 |
16 | Glenveagh and Farscallop | Valley Path and Hillwalk | 4 | 15.5km | 440m | 4½–5½ hours | 68 |
17 | Glencolmcille Circuit | Coastal Hillwalk | 3 | 13km | 500m | 4–5 hours | 71 |
18 | Slieve League Traverse | Hillwalk | 4 | 15km | 570m | 4½–5½ hours | 74 |
19 | Lavagh Beg and Lavagh More | Hillwalk | 4 | 8km | 590m | 3½–4½ hours | 77 |
20 | Benbulbin and Benwiskin | Hillwalk | 4 | 16.5km | 670m | 5–6 hours | 80 |
21 | Benwee Head | Coastal Hillwalk | 4 | 12km | 480m | 4–5 hours | 83 |
22 | Achill Head and Croaghaun | Coastal Hillwalk | 4 | 13km | 920m | 5–6 hours | 86 |
23 | Minaun Heights | Coastal Hillwalk | 4 | 13km | 540m | 4–5 hours | 89 |
24 | Glendahurk Horseshoe | Hillwalk | 5 | 14.5km | 980m | 5–6 hours | 92 |
25 | Nephin | Hillwalk | 4 | 6km | 730m | 3–3½ hours | 95 |
26 | Clare Island | Coastal Hillwalk | 4 | 15km | 600m | 5–6 hours | 98 |
27 | Inishturk | Coastal Hillwalk | 3 | 10km | 290m | 3½–4½ hours | 101 |
28 | Croagh Patrick | Hillwalk | 4 | 10km | 960m | 4–5 hours | 104 |
29 | Mweelrea | Hillwalk | 5 | 15km | 1,070m | 6–7 hours | 107 |
30 | Sheeffry Traverse | Hillwalk | 4 | 11km | 700m | 4–5 hours | 110 |
31 | Ben Creggan and Ben Gorm | Hillwalk | 5 | 12km | 1,060m | 5–6 hours | 113 |
32 | Diamond Hill | Mountain Path | 2 | 7km | 420m | 2½–3 hours | 116 |
33 | Glencorbet Horseshoe | Hillwalk | 5 | 14km | 1,140m | 6–7 hours | 119 |
34 | Glencoaghan Horseshoe | Hillwalk | 5 | 16km | 1,500m | 8–9 hours | 123 |
35 | Central Maumturks – North | Hillwalk | 4 | 14km | 810m | 5–6 hours | 127 |
36 | Central Maumturks – South | Hillwalk | 4 | 13km | 830m | 5–6 hours | 130 |
37 | Black Head | Hillwalk | 4 | 14.5km | 410m | 4½–5½ hours | 133 |
38 | Cliffs of Moher Coastal Path | Coastal Path | 2 | 13km | 240m | 3½–4½ hours | 136 |
39 | Great Blasket Island | Coastal Hillwalk | 3 | 9km | 450m | 3–3½ hours | 139 |
40 | Brandon Mountain | Hillwalk | 5 | 10km | 1,000m | 4½–5½ hours | 142 |
41 | Slieve Mish Circuit | Hillwalk | 4 | 11km | 900m | 4½–5½ hours | 145 |
42 | Coomloughra Horseshoe | Hillwalk | 5 | 13.5km | 1,200m | 6–7 hours | 148 |
43 | The Reeks Ridge | Hillwalk | 5 | 12km | 1,100m | 6–7 hours | 151 |
44 | Coomasaharn | Hillwalk | 4 | 11.5km | 800m | 4½–5½ hours | 154 |
45 | Gearhameen Horseshoe | Hillwalk | 4 | 10km | 750m | 4½–5½ hours | 157 |
46 | Torc Mountain | Mountain Path | 3 | 8km | 490m | 3–4 hours | 160 |
47 | Dursey Island | Coastal Hillwalk | 3 | 11.5km | 410m | 3½–4½ hours | 163 |
48 | Cummeengeera Horseshoe | Hillwalk | 4 | 11km | 900m | 4½–5½ hours | 166 |
49 | Hungry Hill | Hillwalk | 4 | 9km | 710m | 3½–4½ hours | 170 |
50 | The Sheep’s Head | Coastal Path | 3 | 12.5km | 320m | 3½–4½ hours | 173 |
51 | Galtymore | Hillwalk | 5 | 12km | 1,020m | 5–6 hours | 176 |
52 | Lough Muskry Circuit | Hillwalk | 4 | 13km | 730m | 4½–5½ hours | 179 |
53 | Knockmealdown Circuit | Hillwalk | 4 | 11km | 830m | 4–5 hours | 182 |
54 | Nire Valley Coums | Hillwalk | 4 | 15.5km | 800m | 5–6 hours | 186 |
55 | Coumshingaun | Hillwalk | 5 | 8km | 650m | 3½–4 hours | 189 |
56 | Howth Cliff Path | Coastal Path | 2 | 10km | 240m | 3–3½ hours | 192 |
57 | Great Sugar Loaf | Hillwalk | 3 | 5km | 380m | 2–2½ hours | 195 |
58 | Mullaghcleevaun | Hillwalk | 4 | 8.5km | 570m | 3–4 hours | 199 |
59 | Luggala and Knocknacloghoge | Hillwalk | 4 | 12km | 780m | 4½–5½ hours | 202 |
60 | Djouce and War Hill | Hillwalk | 4 | 14km | 660m | 4½–5½ hours | 205 |
61 | Tonelagee | Hillwalk | 4 | 8km | 490m | 3–4 hours | 209 |
62 | Scarr and Kanturk | Hillwalk | 4 | 14km | 540m | 4½–5½ hours | 212 |
63 | Camaderry Circuit | Hillwalk | 4 | 13km | 630m | 4½–5½ hours | 215 |
64 | The Spinc Loop | Mountain Path | 3 | 11.5km | 400m | 3½–4 hours | 218 |
65 | Lugnaquilla | Hillwalk | 4 | 13km | 800m | 5–6 hours | 221 |
Introduction
Selecting the best walks in Ireland is an unenviable task. At first glance, sixty-five routes might seem like a generous figure, but once you consider the details of which trips to include, it soon becomes clear it is not nearly high enough. The problem is that Ireland is so well endowed with quality walks, making a narrow selection is nearly impossible.
The main criterion for inclusion in this guide is wild, dramatic scenery: high peaks, chiselled ridges and unspoilt coastline. Ireland boasts a wide variety of such landscapes and all are ripe for exploration. Yet it comes as no surprise that many of these places lie far off the beaten track. This, to me, is a bonus; my favourite sort of walking takes me to places I cannot access any other way than by foot. When the road ends, that is when I am inspired to head off with my backpack. And the sense of fulfilment that comes from discovering these hidden treasures stays with you long after you have returned home.
My hope is that whether you are an Irish native or a visitor to the country, you will be able to use this guide to reach the same wild places I have, and be rewarded for your effort by the same wonderful views and sense of achievement. You too can experience the natural high of standing on a lofty summit, miles from civilisation, and drinking in the incredible panorama at your feet.
By selecting only those routes that have most inspired me, I am aiming this guidebook at like-minded walkers. So to get the most from the book, you will need to know how to read a map and be confident across open ground. That is not to say that all the routes are technically demanding or especially long. There is a wide variety of trips lasting from two to eight hours, reflecting the diverse nature of the country’s terrain.
Routes have been selected according to practical criteria too: circular routes have been prioritised over linear ones, and car parking and access issues have been carefully considered. The aim is to make it as easy as possible for you to identify a route that appeals to you, travel there, and then complete the walk in confidence. Of course, there is no legislating for those unforeseen events that may occur once you are out – least of all the weather – but such unpredictability is part of being close to nature, and one of the pleasures of walking in Ireland. Overall, I hope this book allows you to discover more about the country’s wild and beautiful places, and that you get as much enjoyment from walking these routes as I do.
The Irish Landscape
Ireland is a small country, measuring just 486km long and 275km wide. Yet its compact form is an advantage in terms of getting around, and its diminutive size certainly should not be mistaken for a lack of topographical diversity. Within these narrow boundaries lies an impressive array of different landscapes.
The country’s coastline stretches for an incredible 5,631km, and in some places is so indented and convoluted it provides a lesson in fractal geometry. The coast is sometimes low-lying and hospitable, with long, golden beaches and enclosed sandy coves. At other times it is wild and inaccessible, with sheer cliffs and thrusting headlands stretching unbroken for miles with just the waves and seabirds as their witness.
The land itself is relatively flat and fertile in the centre, with numerous mountain chains scattered around the periphery. All the country’s most notable ranges – the Wicklow Mountains, the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, the Twelve Bens, the Derryveagh Mountains and the Mourne Mountains – lie in close proximity to the sea. The advantage of this for walkers is that summit views tend to encompass long stretches of coastline as well as neighbouring peaks, further enhancing their impact and variety.
The country has a total of fourteen mountains over 900m high, and 268 hills over 600m high. ‘Mountain’ is of course a relative term – at 1,039m high, Ireland’s highest peak, Carrauntoohil, would not even register as a landmark in some countries. Yet many of the country’s upland walks start from sea level, and it is not uncommon for a route to include 1,000m or more of vertical ascent: a respectable day’s toil no matter where you are in the world.
Ireland’s mountains owe much of their present form to the last ice age, which ended some 10,000 years ago. Prior to this almost the entire country was covered in ice, and the erosive forces of the great glaciers can be seen best in the mountains. The U-shaped valleys, deep-sided corries and sharp arêtes that now characterise the country’s peaks are all direct results of the gouging flow of the ice.
First-time visitors to Ireland are often surprised by the lack of trees covering the summits, and most open ground is indeed bereft of vegetation more than ankle high. The country’s long history of forest clearance stretches back to Neolithic times (around 3,000 BC), and native broadleaf woods are now a precious commodity. The occasional pocket of ancient woodland does still exist, but managed plantations of imported pine are much more common. Yet even taking the new plantations into account, Ireland remains one of the least forested countries in Europe, with just 10 per cent of its surface covered by trees. From a walking perspective, the absence of upland vegetation is just another factor that enhances the frequent, far-reaching views.
The felling of the trees also encouraged the formation of another dominant feature of the Irish landscape: bogland. Bog is made up of accumulations of decayed plant material, and it was once so extensive it covered a fifth of the county. Many of Ireland’s mountains are still protected by swathes of bog, particularly in Connemara, Mayo and Donegal. Bogland makes for an arduous walking surface, and brave adventurers should be prepared for slow, wet and energy-sapping progress. Needless to say, the routes selected here have been designed to minimise the amount of bog-trotting required.
Walking Practicalities
Though Ireland has been split into two political jurisdictions since 1922, the border between Northern Ireland and the Republic is no longer of much practical significance for walkers. The main difference you will notice is using different money in the shops. In terms of climate, mapping, terrain, scenery and effort, the experience of walking is much the same north and south of the border.
More significant for walkers is the proximity of each walking area to the country’s large urban centres. With both Dublin and Belfast – by far the largest cities in Ireland – located on the east coast, it comes as no surprise that the country’s eastern ranges see the greatest number of people out exploring the hills. The Wicklow Mountains and the Mournes are particularly popular, and often described as the ‘playgrounds’ of the two cities. As a result of the frequent footfall, informal paths have formed across many of the high peaks in these areas.
Once you venture further west, the number of people you meet on a typical day out reduces significantly. Indeed, there are several shapely and immensely enjoyable ranges that come with a virtual guarantee of solitude, Mayo’s Nephin Beg Mountains being a prime example. The term ‘wild west’ is still applicable to Ireland, and the sense of isolation can be a novel experience for anyone used to crowded trails elsewhere. In these more remote regions there is often little sign of previous footfall, and walkers must be entirely self-reliant.
A small number of the walks in this book follow signed footpaths, but the vast majority depend on the navigational skill of the individual walker. Even where informal paths have formed over popular peaks, these should not be relied on for navigational guidance. You will need to carry a map and compass for all the routes in the book, and know how to use them.
Access
The vast majority of land in Ireland is privately owned, and the public has no automatic right of access. Some recognised rights of way do exist, but these are not as numerous or as well protected in law as in many other European countries.
Generally speaking, Irish walks fall into four categories. First are the areas owned by public or semi-public bodies, such as the country’s national parks and forests. Most of these areas have regulations that encourage access for walkers, and you can often walk unhindered within their boundaries. Second are areas of commonage, where ownership is shared amongst a number of local landowners. Again, walkers rarely experience any access restrictions here. Third are the signed walking routes, where local councils have negotiated with local landowners to establish an official footpath. There are often negotiations involved in setting up these routes, but once they have been established, you can walk with confidence in the knowledge that all access issues have been resolved. Finally there are the informal routes that cross private land. Many landowners happily tolerate public access and have permitted walkers to cross their land for many years, but others are not so welcoming, citing concerns over liability, trespass and damage to their property.
In the countryside, it is not always obvious whether a piece of land is privately owned, and what the wishes of the landowner are in terms of allowing access for walkers. The best advice is to do some research before you head out to check whether access is permitted, then to chat to locals once you arrive. Whatever the landowner’s wishes, they must always be respected.
The advantage of using a guidebook like this is that all the routes here have already been checked in terms of access. Where a route crosses private land, however, in theory access can be withdrawn at any time, and it is not unheard of for previously established routes to be declared out of bounds. If you do encounter any access problems on the routes described in this book, please contact the publisher so we can address the issue in future editions.
Climate
Ireland enjoys a relatively mild climate all year round, with the prevailing winds coming from the west or southwest. Most rain falls as soon as the clouds meet land, so the east enjoys a slightly drier climate than the west. On average there are around 180 days of precipitation each year, and although the winter is wetter, there are still at least ten days of rain throughout Ireland during most of the summer months. The moral is that it is advisable to be prepared for showers even on apparently sunny days in the summer.
Prolonged spells of wet weather saturate the upland peat, making walking conditions boggy and arduous underfoot. In these conditions, it is best to wear gaiters and avoid routes that cross a lot of open moorland. Rainfall also affects the water levels of rivers, and can transform small mountain streams into raging torrents. River crossings can be very dangerous in spate conditions, and you should consider the effect of different water levels when planning your route.
The warmest months are July and August, when average daily temperatures reach 18 °C. However, many of the best outdoor experiences can be had on crisp, clear days in autumn, winter or spring. The coldest months are January and February, when daytime temperatures average around 6 °C, and night-time temperatures often drop below freezing. This is cold enough to freeze upland bog, and it is a great time to tackle the country’s wetter walking routes. It is wonderful to skip across frozen peat, knowing you might be sinking knee-deep at any other time of the year.
Lowland areas rarely have more than a few days of snow each year. In the mountains, snow is more frequent and may linger for a week or more on the summits. It can cover paths, cairns and other navigational aids, and turn even moderately steep slopes into hazardous slides, so make sure you have the experience and equipment to cope with the conditions. Mountain access roads are often closed after heavy snowfalls too, so check the road conditions as well as the weather forecast before heading out in the winter.
Wind chill is perhaps the biggest danger to winter walkers once they are out in the elements. As a rule the air temperature drops 2–3 °C for every 300m of height gained. Add even a moderate wind chill factor and it soon becomes obvious that several layers of insulation might be needed to keep warm.
Another seasonal consideration for walkers is the amount of daylight. In mid December the sun rises around 8.40 a.m. and sets soon after 4 p.m., giving just seven and a half hours of daylight. By mid June, the sun sets at 10 p.m. and there are seventeen hours of daylight. It is quite possible to start an eight-hour walk at lunchtime and still finish with daylight to spare.
Maps
Ireland has a good range of high-quality outdoor mapping. The long-established standard reference for walkers in the Republic is the Ordnance Survey of Ireland (OSi) 1:50,000 Discovery series. In Northern Ireland, the equivalent is the Ordnance Survey of Northern Ireland (OSNI) 1:50,000 Discoverer range. Together, these maps cover the whole country, and some sheets are available with a waterproof covering. The general quality and accuracy of the mapping is very high, though it can lack detail in the placement of forest tracks and mountain paths.
Many of the country’s most popular walking areas are also covered by smaller-scale mapping. These include four OSi 1:25,000 sheets and a range of OSNI 1:25,000 Activity Maps. Harvey also produce three 1:30,000 Superwalker maps for Ireland, while EastWest Mapping offer five 1:30,000 sheets covering the southeast of the country. The quality of cartography from both Harvey and EastWest Mapping is very high, and these maps often show paths, tracks and other details better than the OS equivalent.
It is worth noting that where different maps cover the same area, there are often small discrepancies between the information displayed, particularly in the spelling of place names and height of mountains. In this guide I have generally used the standard OS references unless there is good reason to do otherwise.
Useful Contacts
Listed below are the contact details of various service providers that might be of assistance to walkers.
Emergencies Dial 999 or 112 for all emergency services, including mountain rescue and coastguard.
Weather The Irish Meteorological Service provides a two-day online weather forecast for Ireland at www.met.ie. The BBC offers a five-day forecast for the UK and Ireland at www.bbc.co.uk/weather/2635167.
Maps To purchase walking maps from outside the region, go to the online shops at www.osi.ie, https://maps.osni.gov.uk, www.harveymaps.co.uk, or www.eastwestmapping.ie.
Forest Services Forestry plantations in the Republic of Ireland are overseen by Coillte. For more information about the facilities and walking trails in each forest, see www.coillteoutdoors.ie. Northern Ireland’s forest parks are run by the Forest Service. For information about park facilities and walking trails, see www.dardni.gov.uk/forestservice.
Hillwalking Resource A great resource for Irish walkers is www.mountainviews.ie. This website provides practical details about all Ireland’s mountains, with walkers’ comments detailing different routes up each peak.
Northern Ireland Walk Directory If you want more information on walks in Northern Ireland, try www.walkni.com. The website has a searchable directory of hundreds of walking routes across the province.
Using This Guide
This guide consists of sixty-five route descriptions covering what I consider the best one-day walks in Ireland. All the routes were checked in 2013 and 2014, and descriptions were correct at that time.
Some of the walks are accessible by public transport, but you will need your own vehicle to reach the more remote excursions. The majority of the walks are circular in format, though there are also a few linear itineraries that use public transport to return to the starting point. Many of the routes are hill-walks, but these range from relatively short, signed loops to challenging trips across the open summits. Other routes are coastal circuits, and there are three routes on Atlantic islands that involve a ferry journey at the start and the end of the day.
Virtually all the walking takes place across open ground or along footpaths and tracks. Road walking has been kept to a bare minimum, and main roads have been avoided altogether.
Grading
Grades have been included to give an indication of the overall difficulty level, 1 being the easiest and 5 the hardest. None of the routes involves any technical difficulties that require rock-climbing skills.
Grade 1 | Relatively short walks on well-graded, constructed paths. Surfaces are firm underfoot and little ascent or descent is involved. Routes are signposted throughout and there are no serious navigational difficulties. |
Grade 2 | Routes still follow signed paths, but these might not be constructed underfoot. Some sections cross rougher ground or open countryside. There are no serious navigational difficulties but routes may involve up to 400m of vertical ascent. |
Grade 3 | Walks in this category involve up to 500m of ascent. Terrain can be rough underfoot, though formal paths may still exist. Routes are generally not signed and navigation skills are required, but route finding should be relatively straightforward in good conditions. Most of the country’s easy hill-walks fall into this category. |
Grade 4 | Longer mountain excursions with up to 1,000m of ascent. Ground can be very rough underfoot and any paths are informal in character. Navigational skills are required throughout and may be necessary to avoid natural hazards such as cliffs. Previous hillwalking experience is recommended. |
Grade 5 | The longest, most strenuous hill-walks fall into this category. Routes generally visit multiple summits, last at least five hours and involve over 1,000m of ascent. Some easy scrambling manoeuvres may be required on the most technical routes. Good stamina, solid navigational skills, and previous hillwalking experience are all prerequisites to complete these routes in safety. |
Sketch Maps
Each walk description is accompanied by a sketch map, to help you locate the route on the relevant reference map. The major features of the landscape are marked, along with any smaller points that may help you follow the route. Please note that scales and bearings are indicative rather than precise, and sketch maps should not be relied on for navigational purposes.
Equipment
Boots are required for all walks unless the route description advises otherwise. Another general rule of walking in Ireland is that you should always be prepared for adverse weather. In the mountains in particular, warm and waterproof clothing is essential even on an apparently sunny day. Gaiters are advisable for cross-country routes after rain.
It is also assumed that the relevant map sheet and a compass will be carried on all routes. Mobile phone coverage is generally good on high ground around the country, but may be less reliable in remote valleys. Do not rely on being able to get a connection whenever you need it.
Responsible Walking
Some of the walking routes described in this book depend on the goodwill of landowners for their existence. Inconsiderate behaviour by walkers may lead to access being withdrawn and apparently established routes being lost. Damage to farm fences and walls, sheep-worrying dogs, inconsiderate parking and litter are some of the main reasons why walkers become unpopular with landowners.
Inconsiderate outdoor behaviour can also have a negative impact on the environment and on other people’s enjoyment of the area. Leave No Trace Ireland is a network of organisations that promote responsible recreational use of the outdoors. They have designed a programme to help walkers and other outdoor enthusiasts understand the impact of their activities and to value the natural environment. For full details of the principles involved, please see www.leavenotraceireland.org.
ROUTE 1:
Causeway Coast Path
This magnificent linear path takes you past the most celebrated stretch of coastline in Northern Ireland.
Grade: | 2 |
Time: | 5–6 hours |
Distance: | 15km (9½ miles) |
Ascent: | 200m (660ft) |
Map: | Maps: OSNI 1:50,000 sheet 5, or OSNI 1:25,000 Causeway Coast and Rathlin Island or Glens of Antrim. |
Start & Finish: The route starts at the parking area for Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge (grid reference: D052448). The site is signed from the B12 just east of Ballintoy. The walk finishes at the car park for the Giant’s Causeway (grid reference: C945439). The causeway is situated along the B146, around 3km north of Bushmills.
This varied and highly enjoyable route explores the numerous natural attractions of the north Antrim coast. The 40,000 hexagonal rocks of the Giant’s Causeway form perhaps the most famous feature of the walk, but the whole coastline is so striking it is protected as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
The route described here follows the best section of the two-day Causeway Coast Way. It starts at the thrilling Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge and traces the shoreline west past sandy beaches, secluded harbours, sheer cliff tops and historic landmarks. Despite its linear format, return transport is not a problem. The walk’s start and the finish points are linked via frequent bus services – use the Ulsterbus Causeway Rambler shuttle service during the summer, and the Antrim Coaster service at other times of the year.
The path is signed throughout, and frequent access points mean you can split it into sections to suit your own preferences. Note, however, that the shoreline at either end of White Park Bay is impassable at high tide, so make sure to check the tide times before you set out. There is also a charge for visiting the rope bridge at the start of the walk, and for parking at the Giant’s Causeway at the end.
The Walk
If this is your first time visiting Carrick-a-Rede, a trip across the thrilling 20m-long rope bridge is highly recommended. Pay your dues at the entrance kiosk and follow a constructed gravel pathway east from the car park. This initial side trip adds 2km to the day’s total.
Return to the car park and begin the route itself. Follow the path west along the cliff top, with Rathlin Island and Scotland’s Mull of Kintyre both visible across the sea. Join a minor road and turn right, descending to the quiet, picturesque harbour at Ballintoy. The road ends here, but the route continues west along a track, then a footpath. Pass a series of stacks and islands to reach the top of a stone beach. A brief boulder hop around the base of a cliff now brings you onto the 2km sweep of golden sand at White Park Bay.
Cross the beach to the cliffs at its western end. Here you have to clamber across more boulders to reach Portbradden, an idyllic collection of houses fronted by a small harbour. St Gobban’s Church lies beside the second house; it is no larger than a garden shed and holds the accolade of smallest church in Ireland.
Continue through a natural rock arch and follow the path around Gid Point, crossing a mixture of rock and grass as you trace the indented coastline to Dunseverick. Several more stiles need to be crossed on this 2km stretch, which ends at the ruins of sixteenth-century Dunseverick Castle.
The grassy path continues northwest from here, climbing towards Benbane Head and Hamilton’s Seat, the highest part of the route. You are now tracing the cliff line some 100m above the ocean and there are wonderful views west along the rugged coastline. Midway between Hamilton’s Seat and the Giant’s Causeway you come to Plaskin Head. This marks the final resting place of the Girona, the most famous ship of the ill-fated 1588 Spanish Armada.
It is not long now before you arrive at the Giant’s Causeway. If you do not want to visit the site itself, continue along the cliff path to the visitor centre. Alternatively, a steep descent down the Shepherd’s Steps will bring you to the basalt columns at the shore. Legend dictates that the Irish giant Fionn Mac Cumhaill built the causeway as part of a bridge over to Scotland. However, scientists maintain the hexagonal structures were created by cooling lava flows around 60 million years ago.
To finish, follow the 1km-long tarmac driveway from the causeway to the visitor centre, which is situated at the top of the hill to the west.
ROUTE 2:
Binevenagh Cliffs
This short circuit explores the cliffs and pinnacles of one of the most fascinating landscapes in the north.
Grade: | 3 |
Time: | 2–2½ hours |
Distance: | 6.5km (4 miles) |
Ascent: | 200m (660ft) |
Map: | OSNI 1:50,000 sheet 4. |
Start & Finish: The circuit starts and finishes at a car park beside Binevenagh Lake, at the top of the cliffs (grid reference: C691308). From Limavady, take the A2 north to Artikelly, then continue east on the B201 towards Coleraine. Turn left 2km east of Artikelly, then turn left again after 5km, following signs for Binevenagh Forest. The forest entrance is located on the left 1km further on. Follow the track uphill to reach the car park at the end of the road.
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